Our three days in San Sebastian (1) were spent on the beach next to the retired fat men. Unlike the body-conscious beach at Nice, or the frattish scene in Barcelona, San Sebastian is where older couples go. Our dueña pantomimed directions to a bookstore, where Drea and I bought more reading material, having devoured several books already on our long train rides. We ate potato and scrambled egg sandwiches.

Our final night, we hit a trendy beach restaurant. After lengthy negotiations with the waitress as to whether the ensalada fresca had any meat in it, we were given a gargantuan green salad with twisty meat garnishes (2). Pizza and sangria soon followed.

Next: Back to Paris . . .